We have been basing ourselves out of Saranda, Albania for the last few months and have been staying across the water to the island of Corfu. We have patiently been waiting for the ferry between Saranda and Corfu to start again. Finally, after nearly 18 months (due to covid), it reopened a couple weeks ago.
So, we jumped on the ferry, along with our car, and explored the island.
First impressions were how green the island was. As we drove around there were so many undeveloped areas covered in greenery. It was stunning. We also realised that the island is not that big – it only takes a couple of hours to drive from the north to the south and only about 30 minutes to drive from the east to the west. There are some places where you can see both the east and west coastlines.
Before travelling we didn’t know much about Corfu and since it was a bit of a spur of the moment plan, we didn’t have much time for a lot of research.
Where We Stayed
Central
We decided to spend our first couple of nights near the centre of the island, close to Corfu Town. We selected a hotel in Gouvia and were pleasantly surprised by the area. The beach nearby isn’t the prettiest, but right outside of our hotel were tons of restaurants and bars. The main street, along with the road towards the beach is full of restaurants and bars. This was perfect for us as we would spend our days exploring other parts of the island, then return to the hotel to get cleaned up and head out for a late dinner. It was so convenient and some of the restaurants had entertainment most nights.
North
We also stayed further north for a night in Sidari. We found out once we were in Sidari that most places were not planning to open for the season for another couple of days due to covid. So we had trouble finding somewhere to stay and it was much quieter than expected. A lot of people recommend this area, but unfortunately, we did not see it at it’s best. The main road in town is full of restaurants, shops, and bars so we could see why it would be a lovely place to stay. In Sidari there are two coastal areas – one of the areas is a long coastline but nothing special. The other is closer to the Canal d Amour. This area is beautiful with the cliff edges offering amazing views, plus a great swimming area between the cliffs. One of the cliffs has a tunnel (known as the “love tunnel”) where couples who swim through the tunnel together will end up married. Near to the canal there is also a couple of beach areas that are stunning.
Corfu Town
We spent one night near the airport (as we had family that were flying out the next day). Where we stayed wasn’t a great location as there was nothing nearby, but we did find later than there are a few hotels overlooking the Vlachernon Monastery. This area had a bit more available nearby, such as restaurants and markets. We stayed a bit further away, but still had a view of the airport runway – which we actually loved. The noise wasn’t an issue unless you were outside or had the windows opened (little to no noise with the windows closed). But you had a fantastic view of the runway and planes coming and going. We loved it! We also enjoyed an even closer view of the runway from the lookout point next to Vlachernon Monastery – more details below.
South
Since we had already explored the north and central part of the island, we finished our time on the island in the south. We ended up staying in Kavos. We aren’t big into nighclubs or party scenes, but we decided to give it a try – we only booked one night to begin with in case we hated it! As with Sidari, we had a very unexpected experience due to covid.
For the most part it was quiet. We stayed a block or two from the main strip, so I think we would have been ok anyway, but the nightclubs were all closed. Only restaurants and bars were open and there was definitely less people than normal. We actually really enjoyed our time in the south and ended up staying an extra couple of nights before leaving the island. There were lots of restaurants, bars, shops, and markets within walking distance. There was also a lot more happening than other locations were visited – such as live singers, djs, and arcade centres. It was a good amount of activity, without being crazy. I’m sure this is not normal for mid-July, but we very much enjoyed it.
Things To Do
Palaiokastritsa
While staying in Gouvia, we headed to Palaiokastritsa on the west coast of the island. It was a short 30-minute drive across the island. We first headed to the Agia Triada Beach, which was lovely. There is a hotel with restaurant along the waterfront and a place to hire boats or take a tour to the Blue Eye Caves.
After a while we decided to head to La Grotta, which we loved. Along the water is also a restaurant and bar, as well as a boat hire and tour operator (the same one as the other beach). We really enjoyed this bay. The other beach was nice, but it was more of a typical beach – pebbles not sand, along an open coastline. La Grotta had more dramatic cliff edges and rocks. There was also a diving board and cliff jumping options. We spent the afternoon swimming and jumping followed by a lovely meal at the restaurant.
Kalami
While heading north, we stopped in Kalami to see The White House Restaurant – the Durrell Family House (f you are familiar with the TV show). After a quick stop we continued through the town and stopped at Kalami Beach for lunch. We found Sea Breeze along the beach and it was amazing – they had the best burgers!!
Kassiopi
We drove through Kassiopi. It was a lovely village. We hadn’t booked anything for our stay in the north because we were hoping to find a cute village – with a nice beach and restaurant options. We liked the look of Kassiopi and we did look for accommodation, but nothing was available so we had to continue. As I mentioned about our stay in the north, a lot of regions hadn’t opened yet for the season, so we were limited with options.
Sidari
We continued driving along the north and ended up staying in Sidari. While there we visited the Canal D Amour and had a lovely time swimming with the beautiful backdrop all around us.
Corfu Town
A trip to the island of Corfu is not complete without a visit to Corfu Town. We were so surprised how much the town reminded us of Venice – although we shouldn’t have been too surprised since the Venetians did occupy the island for a long period of time! We had a great time wondering and getting lost through the streets of the town. There are lots of shops and restaurants to explore. The town isn’t very large so it was easy to explore and navigate.
We visited the Old Venetian Fortress and climbed to the top of the hill to enjoy the view of the old town and coastline – amazing.
We also visited the Casa Parlante Museum. The museum is in a 19th-century mansion setup to show how life was in those times. You get to visit the rooms with a guide that provides a great amount of knowledge. It was quite enjoyable.
Mon Repos
We visited Mon Repos, which used to be the summer residence of the Greek royal family. It is also where Prince Philip was born. The grounds around the palace are beautiful – very green and contain several building ruins. Inside the palace, it’s surprisingly simple. There isn’t anything over-the-top, which was kind of a nice change.
Vlachernon Monastery
Outside of Corfu Town, near the airport, is the Vlachernon Monastery. It’s a cute monastery out in the middle of the water. There is a small walkway connected to land to get to it. There’s not a lot to see but the scenery around it is beautiful. You can also take a boat to Mouse Island which contains a small chapel.
While we were at the monastery, we were super surprised to find that we were right by the runway. There’s a narrow “bridge” where you can sit and watch the planes come and go. It was so much fun to be so close to the planes. As they get their engines going the wind is amazing and you even get a little bit of water mist. I could have sat there planespotting all day. I have no idea why more people don’t talk about this lookout area!
Achilleion Palace
Achilleion Palace is one of my favorite palaces – although I think I say that every time I see a new palace or castle! This one was special as it was built for Empress Elisabeth of Austria in 1890 and the design was centered around Elisabeth’s love of Greece, it’s language and culture. It is named after the Greek mythology hero Achilles and contains several statues and paintings of him, as well as other Greek Gods and Goddesses.
I love Greek mythology and I love the fact that this palace showcases Greek mythology. As you approach the palace you can see the stunning statues along the top of the balcony. The entrance to the palace contains beautiful paintings on the ceiling with a grand staircase framed by two statues of Zeus and Hera. The metal work on the staircase balustrade is beyond beautiful. I haven’t seen a staircase like that before.
There’s a few rooms on the ground floor that contain details about Elisabeth as well as German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II (who purchased the palace from Elizabeth’s daughter after she was assassinated). There is also a room that contains original furniture from the palace. The furniture is incredible, including two amazing lamps, bedroom furniture, and an over-the-top ashtray.
Outside, the gardens are breath-taking. You can make your way to the terrace to see the Dying Achilles statue. And then at the end of the garden from the terrace is the imposing statue of Achilles, overlooking the city. The statue is full of incredible details. It’s beautiful.
Kanoula Beach
While in the south we explored the area and checked out several beaches. Our favorite was Kanoula Beach. There is nothing nearby except for one beach lounge and bar. Otherwise, the beach is completely empty (as far as buildings, etc go). The beach venue was amazing. Across from the beach is the main restaurant area which has tons of seating – table seating as well as lounges and hammocks. Along the water is another lounge area with sun lounges and beanbag chairs. It was a great place to spend a lazy afternoon – swimming, relaxing, and enjoying the yummy food and refreshing drinks.
Kavos
The south of the island is known as the party area. We were a bit hesitant about staying in Kavos as we aren’t huge party goers – however we had a great time. Things were very quiet as the nightclubs were closed due to covid. There were still plenty of restaurants and bars open to make it a fun, active place. We had fun looking around town and swimming.
After a week in Corfu, it was time to leave. We were quite sad to leave but knew that we would be back again in the future. The island is beautiful, the beaches are stunning, and the water is pleasantly warm (or at least not freezing). The more we explore Greece, the more I love it.