Ben and I were both really excited to visit Tanna. Based on our research this island seemed quite different to the other islands we were visiting this trip. The main attraction is the volcano – Mount Yasur.
We decided to stay three nights in Tanna. The first two nights were spent near the volcano and the last night we moved to the center of the island (a bit closer to the airport). We read online that travel time across the island can take quite a while, so we didn’t want any issues the day of our flight.
We landed in Tanna and the AirBNB accommodation we booked was waiting for us outside the airport building. We left the airport and headed into the main town area. The main area only consists of a few small shops, but we were able to pick up a few items (water, bug spray, snacks, etc.).
After stopping at the shops we started to make our way to the other side of the island. The drive did take about an hour and the condition of the roads weren’t too bad until the end of the journey. Our driver mentioned that the paved roads were fairly new and that they still had parts of the island to complete.
One thing you’ll notice in Tanna is the black ground. It looks like mud, but it isn’t wet or thick and it doesn’t actually stick to your shoes or anything.
As we got closer to the volcano we had to cross the ash fields. This was the area at the base of the volcano that was covered in black ash and nothing else. It was actually very beautiful. A flat, black area with the volcano smoking in the background.
Once we got around the volcano we arrived at our accommodation. I knew we were close the volcano, but didn’t realise that we were directly across the street from the entrance. Once we dropped off our bags and checked out our tree house (yes a tree house) we walked across the road to schedule our volcano tour(s). We decided to book into the 4pm tour later that day as well as the 4am tour the next morning. The tours aren’t cheap, but your second tour is discounted and when you buy two tours you can do a third tour for free.
After we booked our tours we headed back to our tree house to relax a bit. The tree house is quite high which gave us a great view of the volcano. It was amazing at night when we could see a red glow in the sky.
After a quick rest, we decided to go for a walk and check out the area. There isn’t a lot to see right off the road because most of the houses or village areas are away from the street. There are a few buildings along the street and you can see down some of the side roads.
As we were walking we found that the locals were extremely friendly. Everyone would smile and say hi as you walked passed, and if you engaged with them further they were super happy to have a chat. We walked past two guys on a work lunch break and they offered us some of their food and told us about the building they were working on. We also had several people driving by ask if we were OK and if we needed a ride anywhere. Everyone was so friendly.
Not far from the volcano is the local school. As we were walking by the school kids were outside playing games. We stopped to watch and then started talking to a gentleman standing by the gate. Turns out he was one of the teachers and was more than happy to tell us about the school, the students, and give us a tour of the facilities. We met a few of the other teachers and then we were invited back the next day to attend some of the classes.
A little before 4pm we made our way to the volcano for our tour. During the afternoon tour there is a welcoming ceremony before you make your way up the volcano. The road up the volcano is very rough and you’re placed in the back of a truck with a wooden plank as a seat. It is very uncomfortable but also a fun way to start the volcano tour. The truck takes us near the top and from there we have to walk the rest of the way up.
There are multiple viewing points for the volcano. When you get to the first stop you can see a bit of amber coming over the top of the volcano. You can really hear the rumble of the volcano as well. It’s pretty impressive and then you are told we get to go to a better viewing spot.
As you continue up the side of the volcano you can see more and more of the molten brewing within the volcano. The rumble also gets louder and you see more of the eruption as it shoots into the sky. We were again in awe watching the volcano erupt, but then we are told we are going to another viewing spot.
Now this viewing spot was amazing. You look right into the molten and the eruption is happening right in front of you. The ash is shooting higher than where we are standing. In this spot you are standing on a narrow path – one side is a very steep side covered in rocks and the other side is the brewing volcano. You don’t want to miss step, neither side would be good to fall down.
From the top viewing spot it is really windy. The gas from the eruptions causes you to cough and the ash does get into your eyes. Each time we went up the volcano we were more and more prepared for the conditions – we dressed warmly, had scarves over our mouths, and wore our water goggles! You may look silly, but it was more comfortable and you could enjoy the volcano without having to turn your back every few minutes.
The volcano was more than we expected. We have never experienced anything like this. It was incredible.
I’m so glad we went a couple of times. I went up twice – 4pm and 4am – and Ben did a second 4am tour. We were lucky because all of our tours were amazing and we had several good eruptions while we were on top of the volcano. We were talking to others and some didn’t get to go to the same viewing area as us (too strong of wind) and some didn’t see any large eruptions.
I enjoyed my second tour more than the first. I don’t think it had anything to do with the time, although watching the sunrise from on top of the volcano was beautiful. I think the first time I didn’t know what to expect and wasn’t as prepared. The second time I knew the drill.
I had a very spiritual experience during my second tour. I was mesmerised with the volcano activity and the intimidating power brewing. The awe of mother nature and the natural phenomena of the eruptions is incredible and hard to fully appreciate and take in. I enjoyed just standing on the side of the volcano watching the molten brew.
After our early morning tour we had a quick breakfast and then made our way to the school. Unfortunately we missed their flag raising ceremony but we did get to sit in a couple classes. We started with the older kids (ages 8-10) then we went to the preschool class.
The classrooms are tin buildings with no electricity and minimal supplies. The kids were all very sweet and shy. It takes a bit of time, but they eventually warm up to you.
When we entered the preschool class we were treated to “the hello song”. It was so sweet.
After the school we did the ancestor tour. It was a great tour that focused on the history of westerners coming to the island and meeting the natives. I won’t spoil the fun for those that are interested in doing the tour – but know that it is well worth it. The tour is done by a number of young local boys. The idea is that the tour helps pay for their school fees rather than them having to quit school because their families can’t afford it. It also gets the younger generations interested in their ancestry history. It’s a great idea and a good way for tourists to support the local community.
The organiser of the tour lives up the road from where we were staying and invited us to come check out their guest buildings that they were in the process of building. We had a great chat with the organiser’s brother and wife. They were very proud of what they have built – as they should because it was very nice – and were very happy to show it off.
On our last morning before we moved accommodation Ben did the 4am volcano tour again. I decided not to go a third time. I really debated going or not, but I had such a powerful experience the previous morning I wanted to end on that and not risk ruining that feeling (plus I was happy to get a bit more sleep!).
After a late breakfast we made our way to the other accommodation. This time we were staying in a bungalow within a local village community.
We did another ancestry tour. It was similar to the previous tour we did at the other location, although they did cover different techniques and shared different historical information so it was worth doing.
After the tour we started to walk back to our bungalow but on the way we passed a bunch of local teenagers playing volleyball. There were several people seating off to the side chatting and watching the game. We were invited to play and watch. Ben jumped in to play with the locals while I decided to watch from the side.
The next day we booked a trip to the blue cave. Our accommodation hosts dropped us off in this cove area and from there we were picked up by boat. By this point in our trip we were getting used to “island time” although Tanna island time was much worse than the other island. We waited quite a while in the cove before the boat came.
Eventually we got on the boat and had about a 30 minute boat ride to the blue cave. Once there we were met by local “guides” (young boys) who swam with you from the boat and guided you into the cave. To get into the cave you had to dive underwater and swim through the cave opening. I was a bit nervous as I wasn’t clear on how deep I had to go or how long I would have to hold my breath. The local boys were wonderful. They were so patient and reassuring – they guided you through the opening, ensuring you stayed low enough that you didn’t hit your head on the rocks.
For the record, for anyone nervous about swimming into the cave it was really easy. It was about 30 seconds underwater, not too deep (while we were there) and not a wide opening either.
Once you were inside the cave it was well worth it. There was a large hole at the top of the cave and a bunch of rocks to climb opposite the opening. We snorkelled for a while, sat on the rocks, and then were taken back out to the boat. There was hardly anyone else there so we basically had the whole cave to ourselves. On the way back to the boat, one of the guides grabbed my hand and pulled me through the water. He was an incredible swimmer and it was a nice ride for me. As I said previously the young boys were amazing – super friendly and helpful.
After the blue hole we were dropped off at a different cove and waited there for our ride. We probably waited for about an hour, but we found a shady spot and had a nice rest while enjoying the view of the water.
The boat driver that took us on the tour came and had a chat with us for awhile and then a local that lived nearby came to say hi as well. Everyone is so friendly and happy to have a chat.
Once our ride arrived they took us into the town to the food market. We had a nice lunch and I bought a bunch of bananas. I only wanted one but they were 50 cents for a whole bunch! I had my banana and then shared the rest with our hosts and another couple that were with us.
After the market we headed to the airport to make our way to Port Vila for our last two nights in Vanuatu.